Adventures in good design, good eats, and everything else.

NYFW Top Collections pt. 1

New York Fashion Spring 2010 is finally over! The net, well mainly FashinFags (since that’s all I really visit anyway), is abuzz with opinions on favorites and not-so-favorites. I think I’ll conveniently be turning my attention dial down during London Fashion Week—in part due to my now busy school schedule and also I really just can’t be bothered—so I can do a multi-part NYC post. I’m slow enough that it’ll take me a week to get through all of them, let’s be honest.

koi_ss10
Images from WWD.

I love that in both her spring collections so far, Koi has progressively been inching away from her knitwear roots but still retains the delicacy that pervades all her offerings. This collection was based upon a classic Thai novel, The Four Kingdoms (See Pan Din), which explains the heavy romanticism of the pieces and their relative disjointedness in comparison to the last spring collection. Perhaps there are four groups that correspond to a kingdom? In whatever case, all of the pieces are sublime. My favorites would have to be the structured organza blazer paired with the high-waisted print skirt as well as the shoulder-less gowns that appear to lift and overflow across the body.

donna_ss10
Images from WWD.

Three words: Shutting. It. Down. Donna has always been in and out of my radar when it comes to New York Fashion week. Until recently, she’s always blended in with the barrage of other shows and presentations of the week. However, the absolutely focused, tactile, and overall spectacular collection she displayed was nothing short of amazing. Superfluous adjectives aside, the looks displayed Karan’s mastery of fabric and structure. She employs a rather smoky palette and retains her classic cinched silhouette but wraps, folds, and layers in combinations that create interest. It’s as if she removed the high-sheen from her liquid looks from seasons past, honed down the color, and employed much more varied and technical construction methods. Pieces that I enjoyed included the deep-necked wrap jackets with structurally organic (if that makes sense) hems and the body-hugging, layered, pencil skirts with just a hint of gradation. This show, coupled with her previous fall collection, has unquestionably solidified her as one the collection leaders of the City.

Related posts:
  1. The harrowing adventures of…
  2. Women’s F/W ’09: Dries & Donna
  3. Dries Van Noten and Miharayasuhiro Spring/Summer 2010
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3 Comments

  1. Posted September 17, 2009 at 11:41 pm | Permalink

    lol i fell asleep early last night but i’ll do one today too i think.
    i like your choices but tbh nyfw was not that impressive.
    also you better pay attention to london, burberry is showing there this season.

  2. John
    Posted September 17, 2009 at 11:53 pm | Permalink

    i was looking to see if you had your choices today! i’ll prob just look for burberry but idek anyone else i like from lfw.

  3. Posted September 18, 2009 at 10:09 am | Permalink

    just posted them : )
    also luella is adorable and there was some other newish london designer i like but i cant remember his name rn. also i THINK stella is showing in london too this season? not sure. mattew williamson def came back for this season, though i never like his stuff anyway. still its a shame people don’t pay as much attention to london.

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