Miu Miu S/S 2010: The Pollenated Girls

Miu Miu collections always have the notions of youth and sexuality as their linchpins, so it’s not really a huge surprise that Miuccia sent out garments that addressed them yet again (in derivations more unabashed and slutty Jan Brady-esque, no doubt).

Photos via Style.it Collage for Restless Things

The strength in this collection not only lies in its subversive nature–the details of which are a bit obvious (booby curvature, anyone?)–but also in its textural sophistication. This is quite evident when taking into consideration Miuccia’s main line, Prada, which was sub-par in comparison because of its one-note nature.

Yes, the focus was upon the super-flat cats, swallows, daisies, and nude women printed upon shirts and skirts but also on their juxtaposition with pieces that had pronounced dimensionality. The one-color prints were applied atop embroidered cropped jackets as well as sheer dresses, interrupted and layered over by embroidery and crystals, and applied sparingly or en masse. This was particularly successful in the stunning nude numbers with subtly printed white shoulders and collars that gave way to crystal covered sheer–especially the peacock feather embroidery, in look 33, which wrapped around the waist to culminate in a beautiful crystal-swathed knot. This was also carried over in the accessories. Shoes were equal parts crystal and patchwork pleated print and bags were decorated with their printed counterparts cut from snakeskin and leather.

In her use of a range of tactility and weight as well as a multi-layered concept, Miuccia posits Miu Miu far ahead of big sister Prada this season in execution.